Finding a place to stay along the road through Banten

Transparent water the color of brilliant turquoise ripples and catches the sun on a clear day outside bungalows overlooking a quiet white sandy beach dotted with swaying palms. No one is around, except the occasional waiter quietly refilling your drink. This has got to be the ultimate escape, and it's hard to believe this is only two hours away from Jakarta.

Banten is the most western part of Java and it offers many retreats alongits coastline which cater to a vast range of tastes, guaranteeing that much-needed rest or adventure you are looking for.

Here's a brief sampling of where you can stay and spend your hard-earned leisure time.

A major first on the road along the West Java coastline is Hotel Mambruk Anyer, a four-star hotel located on seven landscaped hectares of land righton the beach near the landmark Mercu Suar lighthouse, which was built by the Dutch.

Privacy is a main feature here, whether your trip is for pleasure or business. Mambruk, one of the best established hotel resorts in the area, is owned by a famous model of the 1970s and 1980s, Enny Soekamto, and boasts a private white sandy beach surrounded by nature, two swimming pools-- one near the beach and another more private one near the garden area -- and outdoor facilities for beach volleyball, tennis, billiards and table tennis.

This hotel caters to everyone in your entourage. Children are well-accommodated and welcome with a playground to romp in, various activities and an around-the-clock child care service.

One could simply partake in lounging around and drinking one's favorite cocktail or beer at the outdoor bar, but being in one of the world's best deep-sea fishing areas, casting a line at least once in these waters shouldnot be missed. The staff says the Sunda Strait is far from overfished and includes a healthy population of marlin.

The hotel hires out 12-seater speed boats and guides are recommended for swift delivery to prime fishing spots.

A ""squid hunt"" places you and two other friends in a traditional four-seater boat with a guide. The trip, from 7 p.m. to 11 p.m. costs only Rp 25,000 a head and whatever you catch is yours.

Activities on the water are not limited to great fishing. Visitors can arrange jetskiing, snorkeling and scuba diving. After a U.S. navy diver dived in waters off the coast of Ujung Kulon National Park in 1987, he concluded the area was ""of world-class standard equivalent to Bunaken in North Sulawesi in terms of sea life"".

All dive equipment and a dive master are on hand; however, diving experience is necessary as an instructor is not available for first-timers.It is recommended to organize diving expeditions through one of the numerous dive operators in Jakarta prior to your trip down.

Back on the surface, why not take in a climb on Mt. Krakatau which looms majestically across the strait. A boat can be arranged to take you and yourparty on a one-hour trip there, when it is advised safe by the Meteorology and Geophysics Center. Or, if wildlife, jungles and explorations are on your itinerary, turn left and head for the amazing Ujung Kulon National Park, which can be toured within a day, or with an overnight stay included if you wish. All can be arranged through the hotel.

After a hard day playing, nighttimes turn social and are just as busy with a new outdoor disco recently opened at the resort's marina. The Rocks plays a mix of older rock and new pop songs, and should be visited just forthe interior's theme alone. Everything from the furniture to the bar is made from stone, evoking never-ending comments from patrons of the connection to the Flintstones cartoon characters.

On Saturday nights, a special cultural performance along with a beach barbecue is a must. A traditional Sundanese Rampak Bedug involves costumed drummers whose rhythmic playing and dancing is an unforgettable show to capture on film.

Mambruk is ideal for families venturing away together as sea or garden view bungalows are available which can accommodate four adults and four children. The bungalows also have a dining room, living room and kitchenette and are good value at Rp 700,000 for a sea-view bungalow and Rp630,000 for a garden view, plus tax.

If you don't have your own transportation, the hotel is more than happy to pick you up from Jakarta or the airport, either by car or bus at a minimal charge. You'll miss the traffic by starting out on Friday night, and, upon your return home, it's recommended you either head out by noon orwait until after 4 p.m. Late checkout is easily arranged to 6 p.m or 7 p.m., so you can avoid the peak hours from 2 p.m to 4 p.m. on Sundays.

The Marbella Anyer Hotel, also in Anyer, caters to the energetic, and that includes children, for whom it has put together a full schedule, which starts in the morning and goes well into the early evening. Painting, pillow fights, swimming lessons, shuffle board, sand castle building, watching cartoons and children's pool games are just some of the activitieson offer for children of all ages. Also, children up to 12 years of age canstay free of charge when sharing their parents' room.

Adults can choose from a full array of daily activities, which include archery, minigolf and water volleyball at the hotel, or head out to the 600-meter-long sandy beach or one of the three lagoon pools, especially foradults. There's a Jacuzzi, four tennis courts and beach volleyball to roundout your choices. All water activities from sailing, fishing, waterskiing snorkeling, diving and boating are available on request.

Marbella Anyer Hotel, the only five-star hotel facility along this stretch of beach,is relatively new and designed with a Spanish atmosphere, and is busy during the week as a popular venue for conferences and corporate meetings.

Further down the coast from Anyer is Carita Beach and Clarion Suites, which has larger accommodation than what other hotels offer. The luxury condos, which all include a private balcony overlooking the sea, are just one part of the resort, which is under the Lippo Group and the international franchise of Choice Hotels International. Holiday apartments are also available for purchase.

The property is ideal for families as it is next to the ocean, which is more inviting than Anyer with its cleaner water for swimming and better beaches. A Balinese swimming pool is located in front of the beach as well.Having this kind of beach makes it a sin not to take part in the jetskiing,parasailing, banana boats and scuba diving on offer. Snorkeling is highly recommended at nearby Putri Gundul Island.

The marina is a draw for keen fishermen who want to take advantage of thefull range of boats available. From small local boats to ones suitable for deep-sea fishing are of various quality and can be rented short-term. Trawlers are available if booked in advance. You can hire one of the captains who know the area and can find the best fish, or rely on a sonar to locate schools of fish. Once you catch your fish, it can be cooked on board or taken home.

Repeat visitors say there are few places in the world where people can godeep-sea fishing that is so accessible to a major metropolitan area and offers great value at the same time. Another visitor said the activities were astoundingly economical compared to other places around the world. Right now is the optimum season to go fishing. Premium fishing is limited from May to October; authorities say that at other times of the year it isunadvisable for unseasoned fisherman due to rough seas brought on by the wet season.

The golf enthusiast has easy access to an on-site mini golf course or thebeautiful 18-hole golf course at Permata Krakatau Golf Course, which is just an hour's drive away. Tennis court facilities are in the works.

Nature lovers as well as tourists will want to head straight to the newest resort of Tanjung Lesung, located further down the coast close to Ujung Kulon. It is unique from others in Anyer and Carita in that it has a natural unexplored environment and is close to the national park, making ita prime destination for many escaping Jakarta for the weekend. At 1,500 hectares, it dwarfs Nusa Dua in Bali by about six or seven times. Management attributes the unlimited privacy and tranquility of the place aswhat makes it so popular and in high demand. One visitor said there was no other development in the area so it was great for bike riding. All the cottages are four-star rated.

Also situated right on the beach, this hotel is the most similar to accommodations in Bali in terms of design. There is a beach club with wateractivities of all kinds, ranging from kayaking, jetskiing, snorkeling, windsurfing, diving and sailing.

Children are not overlooked at the hotel. They have their own kids club with plenty of activities to ensure an early bedtime. Adult activities are on almost every hour, and everyone is welcome to join in the water polo, Ping-Pong or volleyball.

The Tanjung Lesung Sailing Club, a 10-minute drive from the hotel, is open to everyone and is in full operation for the experienced and the first-time sailor. Boat rentals for nonmembers range from Rp 25,000 to Rp 100,000 an hour. The sailing club is a separate facility from the hotel andalso offers cottages. Occupancy is mainly concentrated on the weekends and nonmembers should call in advance before coming down. The one-and two-bedroom cottages available are basic and natural and start from Rp 150,000 per night.

The resort is a great base to use for your tours of Ujung Kulon, Mt. Krakatau and the interior, where the indigenous tribe, the Baduy, who have retained their ancient Javanese beliefs, still live in the old way. If you want to step back a few centuries, here's your chance. A guide is highly recommended for trips to the isolated community, and it is advised to go through a reputable travel agency who will provide one. Roads leading to the remote community are not good, and delays are to be expected, but the sights and experience are well worth the time and patience it takes to get there. A certain amount of walking is required, but it is not strenuous.

Two groups make up the Baduy tribe, the inner group and outer group. Forget about being able to see the inner group, they have resisted all influences and contact with the outside world.

But it is possible to visit and stay overnight with the outer group to experience insights into their way of life. However, one should realize thecomfort level is basic, such as toilet facilities, which comprise a bridge and a stream below.

Visitors wanting to see the remaining rain forest and protected wildlife,including wild oxen, hornbills, and the rare Javan Rhino, clamor for the chance to go to Ujung Kulon.

And although one can do the trip in a day, after a two-hour boat ride to Ujung Kulon, a minimum of one night's stay is recommended on a nearby island in order to take in a trip up river to see more the next day.

Tanjung Lesung resort can arrange trips to Ujung Kulon easily, but if your plan is to stay for more than a few days it is better to book in advance.

Due to it being the most popular retreat on the coast presently, visitorsplanning a trip here are well advised to call and book at least one week ahead of time. Management promises to minimize the groups in order to give more opportunities to individual travelers but, basically, the more notice one can give, the better. In compensation, the management is offering a 20 percent discount for those who stay from Monday to Thursday and for an at least two-night twin share stay.

Tanjung Lesung has major plans for the area. A world-class marina is under construction, and several hotels will be added as well as a university, holiday housing estates and a marina village. (Maria Kegel)

The Jakarta Post, Jakarta